FAQs

FAQs

Q. How do I begin to shop for cabinets?

A. Our website is a good start! Learning about cabinets, countertops and accessories will make your decisions easier. It’s important to be actively involved in the details of planning of your kitchen. Leaving all the decisions up to your kitchen designer may not end in the results you want. So be sure to convey your ideas for your new kitchen…how it blends into the rest of the home, whether it will be used for entertaining…and any special requirements you may have. 

Q How can I set a realistic budget for my kitchen?

A. Separate big ticket items: Cabinets, Countertops, Appliances, Flooring, etc. Then research your options and go shopping! Get at least two quotes on each item. Then add up the costs…you’ll have a high and low number. Your budget is somewhere between the two. 

Q How can I get a new kitchen on a small budget?

A. Cabinets make up a large portion of the overall cost of a kitchen, and their costs vary greatly. Things that impact the cost of cabinetry include: 

  • Materials used to produce the cabinet box, door and drawer. 
  • The wood species. 
  • The door style. 
  • The type of overlay for the door and drawer fronts. 
  • The application of any stain, glaze or other finish 
  • The quality of hardware components (hinges, slides and pulls). 
  • The variety of available cabinet sizes. 
  • The variety of available accessories in a particular line of cabinets. 

When talking with your designer it is best to be candid about your budget as well as your design priorities. A good designer will show you cabinetry that will allow you to stay within your budget and provide the most important features you want. Look for quality, value for the price and service. Always try to compare “apples to apples” on the different features and finishes. Remember that your cabinets are a more permanent part of your home, as opposed to appliances and countertops. 

You’ll find countertop prices vary as much as cabinets due to the wide differences in materials. Plastic laminate countertops are the least costly and come in hundreds of designs. You can also save by installing cabinets yourself. We can offer you tips on tackling the job on your own. And a good designer can make the installation process easier for DIY-ers if you know you’ll be doing it yourself. 

Q. How do I choose a designer?

A. The single most important step in achieving your goal of a dream kitchen is the choice of a designer. You need someone who is knowledgeable about the products, has experience designing kitchens, and who listens to your requirements and will incorporate them into the design. Your designer should educate you on the basics of cabinet design and styles as well as the pros and cons of your final design. If you feel comfortable with your designer, the purchase process will be enjoyable!  

Q. What type of wood is right for my kitchen? A. There are literally hundreds of wood species, paints, stains and glazes to choose from, making the selection process very challenging. Do you like dark or light wood? Do you prefer a subtle or more pronounced grain structure? What types of wipes or glazes would you favor choosing, or definitely rule out?

If you know what your walls and floors will be, consider using a wood color that will contrast with them. Too much of a good thing can become boring if the colors tend to blend. Or it can be overwhelming if there is too much grain structure, such as knotty pine or hickory cabinets in a log home kitchen with solid pine walls. Using a subtle grained wood in a contrasting color, such as natural knotty cherry, gives the cabinetry separation from the walls and lends definition to the overall look of the kitchen. 

Q If I’m remodeling, does it make sense to re-do the kitchen I have while keeping the same cabinet boxes? A. In some cases, yes. If the cabinet boxes are in good condition and the layout of the kitchen works well, then a kitchen re-facing may be right. We will assess your kitchen to help you determine if re-facing is a good option. 

Q. What are the pros and cons of face frame cabinets vs. frameless cabinets? A. Face frame cabinets, standing independently, are sturdier and stronger than frameless cabinets because they have a frame bracing the front of the cabinet opening. However, when frameless cabinets are screwed together in multiples and then screwed to the wall, they are as sturdy as they need to be.

Frameless cabinets are also called “full access cabinets” because the interior of the cabinet is wide open compared to a framed cabinet, which typically has an opening that is about 2” narrower than the cabinet interior. Doors on framed cabinets open wider than doors typically found on frameless cabinets. 

Doors for face frame cabinet are available in a variety of styles, including standard overlay, full overlay, half inset and full inset. Doors for frameless cabinets are available only in full overlay. The various overlays create different appearances for your kitchen.

Understanding the difference between framed and frameless cabinets is a good first step toward narrowing down the type of cabinetry style that is right for you. 

Q How do I choose the material for my counter tops?

A. First set your budget for counter tops. Plastic laminate is least costly. Solid surface material such as Corian is next, and stone surfaces such as granite and quartz are most costly. Other options for counter tops include solid wood butcher block, cement or glass surfaces. Using different materials on the perimeter and island can be a good way to meet budget constraints. 

Design Terminology

Design Terminology

Back Panel         A matching wood panel that is applied to the back of an island or peninsula. 
Bottom Cap  Decorative wood molding that runs around the bottom edge of the upper cabinets. 
Bump Up  When a cabinet is higher than the cabinet adjacent to it. 
Bump Out  When a cabinet protrudes beyond the front of the cabinet adjacent to it. 
Corbel  Any type of decorative support under a fireplace mantel or bar top. 
Crown  Decorative wood molding that runs along the top of upper cabinets. 
Face Frame Lip  The portion of a face frame that is wider than the side of the box it mounts to. 
Finished End  That part of an exposed end cabinet with a matching wood side. 
Furniture End  A cabinet that has a side that is flush with the face frame. It has no face frame lip. 
Island  Set of cabinets that have walking space around all four sides 
Peninsula  Set of cabinets that extend from a wall and have walking space around 3 sides 
Work Triangle  The triangle created by the location of the refrigerator, sink and range. 
Countertop Terminology

Countertop Terminology

2CM  Refers to granite thickness of 3/4″. 
3CM  Refers to granite thickness of 1-1/4″. 
Backsplash  The wall behind counter areas. 
Cultured Stone  Generic term for man-made stone-like products. 
Edge Work  The style of the front edge of a countertop. Square, bullnose, waterfall, ogee, and bevel are some types. 
Engineered Stone  Man-made stone products, such as Cambria, containing a large percentage of natural stone. 
Granite  100% natural stone product cut from the earth. 
Overhang  The area of countertop that extends past the edge of the cabinet. 
Plastic Laminate  Durable, affordable counter top products such as Formica, Wilsonart and Pionite. 
Radius Corner  Rounding of a corner to eliminate sharp edges. 
Solid Surface  Man-made surfaces such as Corian and Cultured Marble. 
Stool Overhang  Minimum of 10 inches to allow knee space under the overhang when sitting on a stool. 
Surface Mount  Any fixture or appliance that mounts to the top surface of the countertop. 
Under Mount  Any fixture or appliance that mounts to the bottom of a countertop or wall cabinet. 
Hinge Terminology

Hinge Terminology

270 Degree Hinge  This refers to a hinge that allows the door a full movement of 270 degrees, which allows it to open all the way to the outside side of the cabinet wall. 
Ball Tip  An exposed tip of the pin of a butt hinge that is shaped like a ball. 
Barrel  The part of a butt hinge where the two halves come together and are joined with a pin. 
Butt Hinge  A hinge composed of two plates attached to abutting surfaces of a door and cabinet, joined by a pin. 
Clip On Hinge  A concealed hinge that allows you to attach the two parts of the hinge together by simply snapping them together making finishing the doors easy. 
Concealed/Cup/European Hinge  Hinges that are not visible when the door is closed. Concealed hinges can be used on frameless cabinets or face frame cabinets with full overlay doors, and can be European style cup hinges or knife hinges. Knife hinges do leave a visible slot on the edge of the door. 
Cup  This refers to the door portion of a concealed hinge that requires a hole to be drilled in the back of the door. The cup portion of the hinge is inserted into this hole. 
Degree of Opening  This refers to how far or to what angle a door will open. Some hinges will allow the doors to open farther allowing for better access to the contents of the cabinet. 
Demountable Hinges  Demountable hinges come in single and double varieties. The singles demount from the cabinet door only (this requires a special slot to be cut into the door for new installations) and screw directly to the edge of the face frame. Doubles demount from both the door and the frame. 
European Hinges  Concealed hinges that utilize a hole bored into the back of the door. 
Exposed Hinge  A term used to describe a cabinet hinge that is visible from the outside. Barrel hinges are one type. 
Finial Tip  An exposed tip of the pin of a butt hinge that has a fancy turned shape. 
Free Swinging  This means the hinge can move freely along its path from open to close. There is no spring feature to keep the door shut. 
Hinge  A mechanical device used to attach a cabinet door to a cabinet box. There are many styles offering different applications, degree of swing and visibility. 
Knife Hinge  A concealed hinge that require a slot or saw cut into the door to house the “knife” (some types that mount on the top or bottom of the door don’t require these cuts). The hinge mounts to the back of the door and to the edge of the face frame. 
Mounting Plate/Hinge Plate  The piece that mounts to the cabinet (either the face frame or the inside of the cabinet for frameless cabinets). Generally used with concealed hinges. 
No-Mortise Hinge  A style of hinge that can be mounted directly to the cabinet and the door without any mortises or special cuts being made into the wood surfaces. 
Pin Hinge  A hinge that pivots on a single point. Offers a very low profile as only the pivoting knuckle is visible from the outside of the cabinet. 
Reverse Bevel  A door edge that is angled backwards allowing the door edge to serve as the pull giving a clean, simple look. 
Self Closing/Snap Closing Hinge  A hinge that helps pull the door shut and keep it closed. Sometimes called a snap-closing hinge. 
Semi-Concealed Hinge  Semi-concealed hinges are partially visible when closed. The hinge pin is what is visible and on some styles as well as the screws that mount the hinge to the cabinet frame. Also called kerf or knuckle hinges. 
Slip-On Hinge  A concealed hinge where the two parts are fastened together by slipping one half onto the other and tightening a screw. 
Soss Hinge  A specialty concealed hinge used for inset doors. Requires mortises in the door and cabinet for the bodies of both hinge halves. 
Surface Mount Hinge  Exposed hinges that screw to the back of the door and to the front surface of the face frame without requiring a hole or mortise. Also available with decorative finials on the ends of the hinge pins. 
Wrap Around Hinge  A style of hinge where the plates of the hinge are formed around the back edge of the door and/or the face frame. A partial wrap around hinge will wrap around the door and have a plain flat leaf for the cabinet so it can be used on a frameless cabinet 
Zero Clearance  A hinge that allows unobstructed access for pullout shelves or drawers when the door is opened to 90 degrees or more. 
Cabinet Terminology

Cabinet Terminology

Accessories  Supplemental parts of the cabinet referred to as “bells and whistles”. Any non-essential component such as roll-outs, pull-outs, lazy-susans and organizers. 
Angled Corner  A cabinet designed to fit on an end of an upper or lower cabinet creating a fixed angle. 
Appliqué  A carved or etched decorative piece of wood installed on the face of a cabinet. Also referred to as an onlay. 
Arch  Door style with an arched top. 
Base Cabinet  Any cabinet designed to install directly on the floor. Some form of a counter top, such as laminate, engineered stone or granite, is applied on-site. 
Bead Board  Design style that incorporates a beaded, routed detail to flat wood panel coverings. The beaded panels are typically 2. or 3 inches wide, but there are many variations. 
BERP  (Base End Raised Panel) A decorative panel, usually matching the door style, designed to be applied to the side or back of a cabinet, or island. 
Bevel  A portion of material removed from the edge of a piece of wood. This technique can be used to create a natural finger-pull on a beveled-edge door. Also used to create a specific angle when two pieces of wood are joined together…two pieces have a 45° bevel and create a right angle when joined.
Blind Corner  Any cabinet, upper or lower, installed into a corner of a room. Another cabinet will install directly adjacent to it hiding the blind portion. This gives access to an otherwise “dead” corner and provides more storage. 
Bumper Pad  A small spongy material placed on a cabinet door to soften the noise when it’s closed. 
Bun Foot  A round, decorative, furniture type foot used on the bottom corners of base cabinets. 
Butt Doors  Two cabinet doors covering a single opening that’s too large for Just one door. The edges of both doors nearly meet. The opening does not have a center stile. 
Butt Joint  A term used when the edges of two pieces of wood are joined together. 
Cathedral Arch  Door style with a uniquely curved top on the door and frame. 
Center Stile  A vertical strip that is a component of the face frame. It usually divides a cabinet opening equally. 
Corbel  A decorative wooden bracket used as a support mechanism for mantels and bar tops. 
Corner Blocks  Any type of wooden, plastic or metal component used to strengthen any joint. Typical application is where a face frame and end panel are joined. 
Crown Molding  A term for any molding that is applied to the top of the upper cabinets. 
Custom Cabinets  Custom cabinets are just that – custom-made. You can choose from a wide range of options and have cabinets made especially for your taste. You can specify the cabinet’s dimensions, structure (framed or frameless), shape, wood species, finish, moldings, and special detailing. Custom cabinets offer endless number of options, but the cost will be higher than with semi-custom or stock cabinets. 
Dado  A 1/4″ +/- deep channel or groove cut against the grain of a piece of wood. A dado joint is formed when a cross member is fitted perpendicular into the channel. 
Dentil Mold  A term used to describe a decorative tooth-like pattern on any trim molding. 
Dovetail  A term used to describe a joining process of two pieces of  material. Both pieces have wing-shaped notches that interlock. Considered the strongest joint typically used in furniture and cabinet drawers. 

Dowel  A small piece of wood that is about 0.25 inch diameter, used to join cabinets. 
Drawer Face/Front  Finished front panel of the drawer assembly. The panel will match the door chosen. 
Drawer Slides/Guides  The hardware installed on drawers that supports the gliding motion of the drawer. 
Edge Banding  A thin layer of material that is hot-glued to the edge of particle board, plywood or shelving material. 
End Panel  The wood panel on the outside (left or right side) of a base cabinet. 
Engineered Wood  A term used to describe several types of construction material. Engineered wood, such as MDF and HDF, is more dimensionally stable than solid wood. 
Filler  A piece used to fill any gaps in the cabinetry design in order to make the design fit the room precisely. 
Finishes  The surface treatment of a wood product to enhance the beauty of its natural color and grain definition. Usually applied in steps, such as stain, sealer and a clear top coat such as a catalyzed varnish. 
Five Piece Drawer Front  A drawer front that is made using a frame with a panel that floats in a groove on the inside edge of the frame. It is made in the same manner as a frame and panel door. 
Flat Panel  A recessed center panel of a door or drawer design conveying Transitional, Shaker, or Arts and Crafts styling. 
Flute  A concave shallow groove that is routed into a wood surface. Fluting is usually applied vertically. Common use is as an overlay on a cabinet stile or filler for a decorative effect. 
Frame and Panel Door  A door that is made using a frame with a panel that floats in a groove on the inside edge of the frame. 
Framed Cabinet  Refers to a cabinet with a frame joined to the front of the box, typically made from 1-1/2″ wide material. The vertical pieces, called “stiles,” and the horizontal pieces, called “rails,” reinforce the cabinet structure and provide mounting space for the doors and drawers. Framed cabinets are  available in Traditional Overlay or Full Overlay styling. Traditional Overlay styling has an exposed front frame beyond the area covered by the door, typically one to two inches in diameter. Full Overlay styling has larger cabinet doors and drawer fronts, so that most or the entire cabinet front frame is concealed. Framed Cabinets are more traditional than the more contemporary Frameless Cabinets.
Frameless/European Cabinet  Also known as a Full Access Cabinet or European-Style Cabinet. Refers to a cabinet without a front frame (or face frame). Instead, the front edges of the box are covered (edge banded) with matching wood veneer. Because there is no front frame, the doors and drawers are fastened directly to the inside of the box. The absence of a front frame allows easier, unobstructed access into the cabinet and allows for a greater variety of hinge choices. Frameless Cabinets offer a clean, contemporary look. 
French Leg  A furniture-grade decorative leg used on the bottom corners of base cabinets. 
Full Extension Drawer Slide  A slide that allows the back of the drawer to come all the way out even with the front of the cabinet. 
Full Inset  Style of cabinet door that fits inside the face frame (or front frame) of the cabinet. 
Full Overlay Door  Style of cabinet door that completely covers the frame or edge of the cabinet box, giving prominence to the door and drawer design. 
Furr-Down  A drop down or “box-out” at the ceiling typically 12″ high and 14″ deep. Often used for heating ductwork. Kitchen cabinets are installed up to it creating a step effect. Also called a soffit or bulkhead. 
Galley Rail  Any molding using tiny spindles to create a front retainer along a plate rail cabinet top. It gets its name because of its likeness to galley rails used on ships. 
Glaze Finish  An additional finish treatment that is applied to improve a standard stain, enhance door detail and smooth out wood species variation. Glazes also enhance wood color and tone. Glazes actually enhance and improve the beauty of the wood and the base finish color. Glaze treatments and techniques can vary from heavy to light, with lighter treatments lending themselves to a more subtle appearance. 
Grain Variation  A term used to describe the natural, dissimilar grain patterns  of wood. 
Joint  A construction term used when two pieces of material are joined or attached together. Common types are:   Butt   Cope and Stick   Dado   Dovetail   Miter   Mortise and Tenon   Rabbet   Tongue and Groove 
Kerf  A saw cut that is made on the surface of a board to relieve stress. It is used to create a curve, such as with a toe kick around a curved base cabinet. 
Kiln Dry  A term used to describe the process of oven drying fresh cut lumber. The process removes excess moisture so raw lumber can be fabricated into a finished product. 
Knob  A hardware item, typically round in shape, attached to doors and drawers for function and decoration. Also called a pull. 
Knot  A hard node in any wood species where a branch once grew. 
Laminate  To bind together layers of wood, plastic, or other material using heat and pressure. Also a product made of layers of wood, plastic, or other material, often used in the fabrication of kitchen countertops. 
Lazy Susan  A corner kitchen base cabinet with shelves rotating on a center pole for easy access. 
MDF  Medium Density Fiberboard. An engineered wood with a very tight and smooth surface. MDF consists of wood fibers glued together in a press under very high pressure. MDF is very stable and is favored for laminating with thermo-foils and melamine. 
Melamine  A slick plastic-like material used to cover a substrate of particleboard or MDF. This material is popular because it is durable and easy to clean. 
Millwork  Any type of machined woodwork. 
Miter  A joint made when two beveled surfaces form a specific angle 
Mitered Frame door  A door that does not use a rail and stile frame Instead it has four pieces of similar shaped wood with each end cut at 45 degree angles that join together in the corners like a picture frame. 
Modified Full Overlay  Doors that are sized to almost touch, reducing the appearance of the front frame. 
Modular  Any unit constructed with “standardized” sizing. Modular cabinets are generally manufactured in 3″ increments. 
Moldings  Trim pieces used to improve the aesthetics of a cabinet or set of cabinets. Varieties include crown, rosette, fluted and rope. 
Mortise and Tenon  A specific joining technique. The mortise (groove or slot) is cut into a piece of wood. The joint is made when an opposing piece cut with a tenon (a collared protrusion) is slipped into the mortise. 
Mounting Rail or “Cleat”  A piece of wood that extends horizontally along the bottom and top of upper cabinets and along the top of base cabinets used for securing the cabinet to the wall. Also the piece of wood on a base cabinet that runs from front to back at the top used for mounting countertops. 
Mullion Doors  Mullion doors have glass inserts in place of the typical solid center panel. The inserts typically have horizontal and vertical dividing bars similar to those in windowpanes. 
Nomenclature  A string of letters and numbers used to identify specific cabinet types or accessories. 
Onlay  A carved or etched decorative ornament installed on the cabinet face. Also referred to as an appliqué. 
Overlay  Decorative panels affixed to a cabinet surface or attached to the ends of upper or base cabinets. 
Partial Inset Door  Also referred to as a lipped door. Style of cabinet door that partially rests inside the face frame and has a lip on the edge that partially overlays the face frame. 
Partial Overlay  Style of cabinet door found on a framed cabinets that overlays the face frame by 1/4″ – 1/2″, leaving most of the face frame exposed. 
Particle Board  An engineered material made of wood particles glued and compressed together. 
Peninsula  Similar in design to an island except open on only three sides. Often used in “L” shaped kitchens as serving bars that separate the kitchen from the dining or family room. 
Plywood Sheet  Material that is made of thin layers of wood glued together so that each layer has an alternating grain structure. One or both outside layers of plywood can consist of a wood veneer, available in a variety of species. Typically there are between 7 and 13 layers of wood in plywood with a thickness of 1/2″ to 3/4″. 
Puck Lights  Lights mounted under wall cabinets, often used to shed light on counter tops below. May also be installed inside wall cabinets to illuminate them. 
Pull  A hardware item attached to doors and drawers for function and decoration. Also referred to as a knob. 
Rabbet  A technique for joining two pieces at right angles. A portion of material is removed from the edge of one piece similar to the thickness of the other piece. When the two are attached the joint is strengthened. Also called a half-lap joint. 
Racking  Generally caused by poor installation, “racking” occurs when a cabinet is twisted out of square, and results in poor door and drawer alignment and operation. 
Rail  The horizontal structural component of a door’s top and bottom edge. These horizontal pieces join the vertical door stiles of the frame. 
Ready to Assemble  Also known as “RTA”, refers to cabinets or furniture that must be completely assembled by the customer. 
Recessed Door  A door with a flat panel that is held inside the perimeter of the frame. A flat panel that rests between the stiles and rails. 
Re-Facing  Refers to a kitchen remodel or “makeover” in which the actual cabinet and drawer boxes remain in place. A new, thin plastic laminate is applied to the exposed outsides of all cabinet surfaces, and all doors and drawer fronts are replaced with new ones. Handles, hinges and drawer slides can be replaced and upgraded as well. Re-Facing is more convenient than a complete removal and replacement of cabinets, and is a good option when an updated layout of the kitchen is not desired. 
Reveal  The exposed portion of the cabinet face frame that is seen when the cabinet door and drawer are closed. 
Rope Molding  A piece of molding milled to appear twisted like rope. 
Rout  To drill or gouge out an area of wood for decorative or joining purposes. 
RTF (Rigid Thermo Foil)  RTF is a laminate used in the process of fabricating a one-piece door. 
Scribe Allowance  Face frame extensions beyond the cabinet box that can be trimmed to ensure proper fit. 
Scribe Molding  A generic piece of molding, usually 1/4″ thick and up to 1″ wide, for the purpose of trimming and concealing any discrepancy where the cabinet meets a wall. 
Semi-Custom Cabinets  Semi-custom cabinets offer more options than “stock cabinets” and are available in a number of different sizes, shapes, wood species and finishes. Semi-custom cabinetry provides styling options in both framed and frameless offerings, including varying depths, special finishes, inverted frames, etc. 
Skin  A 3/16″-thick veneer panel generally used on the ends or backs of upper or base cabinets. 
Slab Door  A door that has no frame, and is instead made of a solid slab of wood, usually made with several narrow strips of wood laminated together to achieve the desired width of the door. Some slab doors are made using a manufactured substrate with a veneer over it. 
Soffit  A drop down or “box-out” at the ceiling typically 12″ high and 14″ deep. Often used for heating ductwork. Kitchen cabinets are installed up to it creating a step effect. Also called a furr-down or bulkhead. 
Solid Wood  A panel or door made of solid wood is comprised of boards that are joined or glued together to form the width of the panel. Because natural woods have variations in color and grain pattern from board to board, these variations will be apparent in a solid wood piece. A solid wood piece is more expensive than a veneered piece. 
Standard Overlay  A cabinet door that overlaps the cabinet opening by 1/2″ on all four sides. Often used for a door style that is designed to work with a specific hinge type. 
Stile  The vertical structural component of a door’s left and right edge. These vertical pieces accept the horizontal door rails of the frame. 
Stock Cabinets  Stock cabinets are among the most popular cabinets sold, as  they are economical and offer a variety of sizes, shapes, wood species, and finishes. The selection is not as varied as with semi-custom and custom cabinets, however. 
Stretcher or Nailer  A structural component of the cabinet box. They are hidden horizontal members connecting the end panels at the back of cabinet. During the installation process 2″ to 3″ screws are used to mount the cabinet to the wall through the stretchers. 
Styles  The variety of cabinet doors the consumer has to choose from. Some styles are:   Arched raised panel (cathedral or eyebrow)   Square raised panel   Arched flat panel   Square flat panel 
Substrate  The structural material beneath a layer of veneer or laminate. 
TERP  (Tall End Raised Panel) A decorative panel, usually matching the door style, designed to be applied to the side or back of a cabinet, a pantry or refrigerator end panel. 
Thermofoil  Flexible, 100 percent solid-colored vinyl. With adhesive on its underside, it is applied to smooth, engineered wood or MDF which has been formed into a door, drawer or molding design. It has a solid coloration and is easy to clean and maintain. Ideal for durable areas. 
Tilt/Tip-Out Trays  Plastic or stainless steel trays attached to false fronts in the sink area are a popular accessory item ideal for storing sponges and other dishwashing supplies. 
Toe Kick  The recessed area at the bottom of base cabinets. Usually 4″ high and 3″ deep. 
Tongue and Groove  A specific joining technique where a groove is cut into one piece of wood. The joint is made when an opposing piece cut with a tongue (a collared protrusion) is slipped into the groove. 
Traditional Overlay  Overlay is the amount of front frame covered by the door and drawer. The exposed front frame is referred to as the reveal. The reveal on Traditional Overlay cabinets is typically 1”. 
Valance  A decorative panel installed across an open area, generally used above desks or sinks. 
Varnish  A hard, transparent coating used to protect the cabinet surface. 
Veneer  A veneer is a thin piece of solid wood that typically is attached to particleboard. The benefit of veneered components is that they are more uniform in finish and are more economical than solid wood. 
V-Groove  A vertical beaded or grooved door style design. Works well to highlight finish techniques. 
Vinyl Laminate  A material used on the interior of most cabinetry as well as most cabinet exterior end panel surfaces. Typically 2 mils thick, it is very easy to clean. Since vinyl is thinner than melamine, it can easily wrap various cabinet components while providing the highest degree of resistance to moisture and abrasions. 
Wainscot  A wooden facing or paneling that is generally applied to a wall or large end panel of a cabinet. 
Wall Cabinet  Any cabinet type designed to install at or above eye level. Common application is 18″ above the base cabinets. Also referred to as an upper cabinet. 
Warp  Any wood product that distorts or twists out of shape. Usually caused by excessive heat or moisture. 
WERP  (Wall End Raised Panel) A decorative panel, usually matching the door style, applied to the side or back of an upper cabinet. 
Maintaining and Cleaning Butcher Block Surfaces

Maintaining and Cleaning Butcher Block Surfaces

If you are planning to install wood kitchen surfaces but don’t know how to care for butcher block counter tops, look no further! 

Wood counter tops are a no brainer for many of us but it takes the right amount of dedication to keep those wood surfaces clean over time.  While this post focuses on wood counter tops, all of these tips can be used for your wood cutting boards as well.  In fact your wood cutting boards need just as much care as your wood counter tops.

Natural wood surfaces need to be oiled and maintained.   If you find yourself asking why, consider where they came from and what kept them alive.  Trees gain moisture and nutrients from soil that is used to nourish the wood.  Once that wood is converted into a counter top surface, the source of nutrients has been eliminated.  To keep your butcher block or counter tops in a healthy state, free of warping, scratching, and chipping it takes just a little care to maintain the beauty and integrity of the wood.

While many think that wood counter tops may be a lot of maintenance they are really quite simple!  Follow these easy tips and keep your wood counter tops looking great for years to come.

First you should always have a sponge or towel handy to wipe up spills or food before they have an opportunity to stain the wood.  Now let’s be realistic, life happens and stains are going to eventually find their way to your wood counter tops, don’t panic!  Grab a fresh lemon, slice it in half and rub the stain with the juicy side.  If you want to scrub it a little, throw a pinch of sea salt into the equation.  If the stain is really deep you can allow the mixture to sit overnight. 

As we discussed earlier, wood needs a source of moisture to retain its healthy appearance.  Invest in a bottle of oil found at any home goods store or kitchen supply store.   This oil is your key to glistening, crack free counter tops. 

To oil your counter tops follow these 4 simple steps:

  1. Clean the entire surface with soap and water, then wipe dry.
  2. Cover the surface with a thin layer of mineral or wood oil, and rub in with a cloth.
  3. Allow the oil to sit on the surface for 20-30 minutes.
  4. Wipe up any excess oil with a cloth.

Repeat this process monthly for well-maintained butcher blocks and wood surfaces.

For busy homes that value an extra layer of protection, you can have your wood counter tops covered in a protective sealant. Using a food safe urethane or polyurethane sealant, your counter tops lock in to their fresh appearance.  Keep in mind that sealants are not ideal for cutting surfaces, be sure to only use these on sections that will be chop free!

Wolverine Cabinet Company is a certified dealer for Michigan Maple Butcher Block, for more information please contact us.